Todd Lynn (The Wealth Collection)

London-based, Canadian-born Todd Lynn has been carving himself a wildly successful fashion niche in the grand tradition of stadium-scale rock and roll tailors. Just as Antony Price dressed Bryan Ferry, Grace Jones mused for Issey Miyake and Stephen Sprouse engineered the visual essence of Debbie Harry and Blondie, Lynn’s designs have become synonymous with a very individual and authentic kind of contemporary rock star. His dark and edgy collections are a favourite of Courtney Love; he’s created bespoke outfits for the Rolling Stones and PJ Harvey and continues to be under contract to U2 to create the bulk of their tour wardrobe.

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When he began working, as a fashion student in Toronto in the late 90s, leather was his first tailoring textile of choice, both out of necessity (‘you just couldn’t get good fabric in Canada,’ he says) and for its connotations. His early influences were the sci-fi imagery of HR Geiger, and the dark musical underground of the Cramps and the Sisters of Mercy.

Lynn’s career was kick started in 1996 when his friend, the celebrated music video director Floria Sigismondi, commissioned him to create outfits for Marilyn Manson for the promo clip for the single ‘Beautiful People.’ Two years later he moved from Toronto to London to study at St Martins, and then went on to assist red carpet womenswear wizard Roland Mouret.

Lynn launched his own label with a spring/summer 2007 London Fashion Week show which was a paradigm of his rock star chic aesthetic: Black, white and grey tailoring defined by cut-throat sharp lines, pinched in waists and elegantly flared wrist silhouettes, all with a touch of dandy and a soupcon of goth. Since the 2007 show his label has continued to grow but with a meticulous eye on near-couture quality rather than on diffusion and mass market appeal. His work is produced in incredibly small editions, with many pieces numbered (1 of 5; 1 of 25 etc), and everything produced in the finest fabrics, and with flawless attention to detail at his factory in France.

What are your plans for 2010? What can expect to see from you?

I’m planning an expanded range of product but a specific focus on menswear. There has been such a demand from the men’s side of the collection from all sectors – stores, customers, press and celebrities. The foundation of the collection started in menswear, and it has always been a crucial part. It remains the starting point for, and acts as a kind of explanation for, the womenswear. In my first show there were 21 outfits but only six were actually women’s, but I had do womenswear because there are no men’s shows in London. Over the seasons the demand for the womenswear has been overwhelming but now it’s time for me to really give some concentration to the label’s roots. Of course the quality will remain the same. With the kind of limited production I do there’s inevitably a high price point, but at the same time I think modern luxury isn’t about what you can afford, but about exclusivity.

What are your design predictions for 2010?

There’ll be no looking back to the past. It’s all about forward thinking: modern grungy-goth shoe gazers in something bright! I think that we’ll need to see some fantasy in our wardrobes. I imagine that with the recession really kicking in everyone is getting bored with the whole doom and gloom thing. From now on I think it’s going to be all about styling yourself up. There’ll be a bit of ‘customisation’ but a little less ‘home craft’ and a lot more customised styling. New ideas will emerge on the street and creativity will over flow into the gutters of those same streets. So pay close attention to what’s walkin’ past!

What are you working on now?

I’m working primarily on the next collection. It will be a focus on modern grunge. Something slick with something tattered. It’ll be about layering and the disguising of glamour. So many people with wealth are choosing to disguise their spending patterns whether through online purchases or dressing less ‘flashy’ in the street. My work always revolves around the ‘dress-up with the tattered’ aesthetic and that attitude works with the economics of today. It’s a style adjustment that fits the new attitude.

What excites you about 2010?

I’m so excited that we’ll be fully into the new millennium. This middle ground of the ‘noughties’… it’s such a bad name for a decade. I love starting things with a clean slate, kinda like New Year’s Day. It’s a bit like confession must be like; starting afresh. And this is the start of a whole decade. I could barely contain myself at the start of the new millennium.

Outside of your field who do you predict to be big in 2010?

Musically I’d say Florence and the Machine, the BRIT Awards 2009 Critics’ Choice, She’s got a great sound and really rocks it good. And my friends Dragonette have a new record out this year. Their music is infectious, they have great style, and I predict big things for them.

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One Response to “Todd Lynn (The Wealth Collection)”

  1. following the blog, great stuff!

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